Imagine waking up before dawn on a beautiful midsummer’s day in the 16th century. The air is cool, and there’s a full day of work ahead or a trip to the market. But how would a farmer and his wife prepare for their day in this era? What did their preparations look like? How did they dress for the day ahead, and how did their clothing choices reflect their daily tasks and lifestyle? We answer these questions and more as we explore Tudor clothing and the daily routines of a typical Yeoman Farmer and his wife as they prepare to start their day.
Early Mornings and Daily Routine
Just like in modern times, men and women generally wanted to look as good as they possibly could, and they dressed as best as they could afford to. But clothing also had to be extremely practical, in a time well before houses were heated or cooled, keeping warm in the winter, and cool in the summer was of utmost importance. Life was hard for most people in this period and much time was spent outdoors so their clothing needed to offer protection from harsh weather conditions through all seasons.
Men’s Attire
Men would start the day by dressing in their undergarments – ‘Braies’. Braies are linen underpants and were the first layer of clothing, held in place with a lace tied around the waist. Historical evidence shows that they may not have worn braies at all, simply tucking their shirt between their legs or only wearing them for particular occasions.
Next, men would pull a linen shirt over their head, it would sit underneath their main clothing. Linen is a very effective material for keeping clean and it wicks away sweat, it is also easy to wash and very quick and easy to dry.
They would then wear breeches or trunken hose over the top which were typically in the Henrician style, full material, to reflect the fashion of the time. Attached to these was a waistcoat-like, linen garment called a pourpoint. The main purpose for this was for extra warmth and to hold the breeches up. Alternatively, close-fitting woollen “joined” hose, again laced to the pourpoint could be worn, for a tighter fitting, smooth look. These could be footed or finish at the ankle, but if the former, then linen or woollen hose may have been worn, either woven or knitted.
A doublet, which is a fitted “jacket” usually of wool, was then worn over the pourpoint and shirt.
For footwear, it was important to keep feet warm and dry given the distance they would cover on foot in a typical day of work. Men wore boots, and when the ground was wet, they wore ‘pattens’ – leather and wooden overshoes which were secured with straps and designed to raise the foot out of the mud.
Women’s Dress
For women, a calf-length shift or chemise made of linen would be the first thing to be put on in the morning. This garment was practical as it was easy to wash and dried quickly. The woman might have slept in this shift unless she was wealthy, in which case she may have changed into a night shift for bed.
Women also wore a ‘Partlet’ which was similar to a waistcoat and worn to provide warmth, cover the neck and keep the inner outfit clean. She would also wear a kerchief and use brass pins to secure it around the neck.
The final layer was a woollen dress called a ‘kirtle’, a one-piece garment that could be laced at the front, side, or back, depending on the wearer’s preference. Tudor period kirtles varied in appearance but would usually combine a fitted bodice with a skirt gathered into the seam of the waist. It was important for comfort that this fitted the woman properly, particularly for women of the village who would work long days, cooking, cleaning, looking after the children, and farming the land.
Good quality wool was important, and the kirtle was a garment that allowed women a little more freedom in the way they looked and an opportunity to express their individuality. Women could show their affluence through their choice of fabric, colour, and embellishments. Wearing a finely crafted kirtle made from premium wool was a clear indicator of one’s social standing.
Women would also wear woollen stockings gartered with ribbons, which reached just above the knee. Like men, they would wear boots and patents in the winter months to keep their feet off the muddy ground.
For going out, to show importance and to add warmth, both men and women would wear a gown, a heavy coat. For ladies, this was full length, laced up the front; for men, this finished at the knee and styled again in the Henrician style.
Hygiene
The wealthy may have changed their body linens three of four times a day to keep themselves clean, but this was not possible for humble farmers and their families. Generally, anything worn directly against the skin was made from linen, which is durable, breathable and widely known to be an effective barrier to bacteria – and therefore disease. Outer garments were nearly always wool since wool was warmer and needed less frequent cleaning.
Tudor Hair Styling
There was no strict rule about hair length for men, and so the morning routine was vastly quicker and easier for men than for women! They might have worn it at any length they found comfortable, mostly cutting it themselves at home. Facial hair was also a personal preference; some men had beards, while others did not.
Women, on the other hand typically had very long hair, often reaching down to their waists. They would intricately lace their hair with linen ribbons at the start of the day, plaited, and secured with a metal bodkin. This elaborate hairstyle was then hidden under a coif or head cloth, as women were expected to cover their hair completely once married or when they reached their mid-20s. Hair lacing was an important part of the female routine and was not a quick process, although over time it is likely women became very adept and skilled at the technique.
We run various demonstrations on dressing in the 16th century as well as other domestic demonstrations showcasing the every-day lives of rural communities in the Tudor period.
