The Art of Hair Lacing in the 16th Century

In the 16th century, hair lacing was an essential part of a woman’s daily routine. It was not simply for aesthetics, but also a practice steeped in religious, moral, and practical reasons. We explore the significance of hair lacing during this period and offer a glimpse into the process involved.

Why Women Covered Their Hair

During this period in history, a woman’s hair was considered her “crowning glory” and was to be shown only to her husband once she reached maturity, typically in her early twenties. This belief stemmed from religious teachings, particularly the words of St. Paul, who insisted that a woman’s hair should be covered as a sign of modesty and piety.

Covering the hair was also a practical necessity, most women grew their hair extremely long, often down to their waists. Households of the time were often less than sanitary, with flies, lice, and other pests being common, so covering the hair helped protect it from these nuisances. Additionally, regular hair washing was, of course, impractical, so it was easier to keep hair clean by simply covering it.

The Importance of Hair Lacing

In addition to covering their hair, women in the 16th century engaged in hair lacing practices. This not only kept their hair neat and tidy but also served as a base for securing various headwear. Hair lacing involves the intricate braiding of long ribbons into the hair, which could then be styled in numerous ways depending on the occasion and the wearer’s social status.

How to Lace Hair in the 16th Century

A typical 16th-century lady would lace her hair after getting dressed, as the final part of their morning routine. She would separate the hair into two strands and part it in the middle. A long linen ribbon approximately three yards in length would be used and she would begin by plaiting each strand of hair with the ribbon intertwined. Once the plait reaches the end, she would tie off the ribbon, leaving a long strand hanging down. This hanging ribbon would be used later, and the plaiting continued on the other side. She would then lace the second one. If the ribbon frayed, which often they did, the process could take a little longer so trimming the ends and dipping them in beeswax helped to seal the ends of the ribbon and speed up the process. Once both sides are plaited, she takes the two ends of the ribbon and ties them into place.

The final step in the hair lacing process included adding a head cloth which ensured a close, tight fit and reduced the chances of hair escaping from underneath the headwear later on. As there was no elastic at this time, everything was tied off to create a secure finish. A coif or cap would then be added, and this is where women of the time were able to individualise their headwear if they wished. Women could insert a piece of wire to their cap which would create a silhouette, akin to the English or Gable hood, which ladies of a higher status commonly did.

The process would then be finished off by pinning the coif or cap in with some bronze pins, in order to hold everything in place.
Even though women were required to cover their hair upon reaching maturity, they often created elaborate headwear styles for both practical and aesthetic reasons. Each woman would craft a unique look, one that she might spend years perfecting to reflect her individuality.
Hair lacing is one of a number of demonstrations at the Museum to give insight into the daily lives and cultural norms of people living during this period.