The History of Wassailing

In times when a good harvest and the successful rearing of farm animals was essential to survival, ceremonies like wassailing were held to ensure the health of crops, animals and the local farmer, on whom many labouring men depended for their livelihood. Good health for all was the wish, especially just after Midwinter when the days were at their coldest and life hung in the balance. 

The word ‘wassail’ comes from the Saxon, ‘Waes Hael’, which means ‘Good Health’. It was a toast commonly associated with the new year and people would go wassailing on the Twelfth Night (5 January) or Old Twelvey (17 January). 

There are two variations of wassailing: One involved groups of merrymakers going from one house to another, wassail bowl in hand, singing traditional songs and generally spreading good health for the coming year. The other form of wassailing was generally practiced in the countryside, particularly in fruit growing regions, where the trees were blessed with stories and song. 

The wassail drink itself would generally consist of a warmed ale, wine or cider, blended with spices, honey and perhaps an egg or two, all served in one huge bowl and passed from one person to the next with the traditional ‘wassail’ greeting. When a drink was given or offered, the giver would say, ‘Waes Hael’, and the receiver would reply with ‘Drink Hael’ (‘Drink Well’).

The house-visiting wassail involved a group of singers carrying their bowl from house to house, singing a song on each doorstep. Their bowl would be filled with the hot spiced cider or ale by the occupants, who were then assured good health for the coming year.

In some areas, the farm animals were wassailed. The filled bowl was carried round the stables and byres and the best of the animals, named in a song, were sprinkled with cider using a sprig of rosemary. This was to ensure calves and foals for the coming year, as well as a good grain harvest. 

The wassailers would then retire to the farmhouse to make a similar wish for the farmer and his family, and would be rewarded with yet more cider and ale.  Another part of the tradition was to make a wassail cake, below is a traditional wassail cake recipe that we use for the Museum celebrations. 

Wassailing the apple trees developed in the apple growing counties of the south-west and west of England, and also in Sussex and Kent. This was done to ensure a good crop, by offering bread and cider to the good spirits of the orchard and driving out the evil spirits with rough music and gunfire. 

In Sussex and Kent, the loud noise of the ceremony led it to be called ‘Apple Howling’ or ‘Apple Yowling’. Although other apple wassailing songs have been collected from the West Country, none have been discovered which refer directly to Sussex and Kent traditions. 

The reason for the practice was to ensure a plentiful supply of cider. At the time it was the duty of every farmer to supply drink for his workers at all times. This ranged from very weak brews for everyday consumption, to the really strong ales brewed for special occasions like the Harvest Supper, the end of sheep-shearing and for Christmas. Where there were no apple trees, farmers had to supply beer or ale to their workers which was much more expensive. Therefore, where possible, they gave cider so that the barley could be sold and the farm would prosper.

The origins of the wassail ceremonies are obscure, but the custom of wassailing in all its forms continued into the beginning of the nineteenth century and, in some places, beyond that.

Wassail Cake

Original recipe by Marjorie Clarke

(Used for the Sompting Village Morris Wassailing)

Ingredients: 

• 225g eating apples
• 110g raisins
• 225g cider
• 170g butter
• 100g (4 tbsp) honey
• 4 medium eggs (approx 190g egg white & yolk)
• 200g self-raising flour
• 2 tsp baking powder

Method:

1. Grease and line an 18cm square baking tin, or similar.
2. Preheat the oven to 180C.
3. Put the raisins in a saucepan, cover with the cider, bring to the boil then remove from the heat.
4. Add the apple pieces to the cider and raisins, and allow to cool while you continue.
5. Cream the butter and honey then gradually add the beaten egg. If it starts to curdle, add a little of the flour.
6. Sieve together the flour and baking powder.
7. Add half the flour to the batter, and combine.
8. Add half the cider mixture to the batter, and combine.
9. Add the other half of the flour and fold in.
10. Add the rest of the cider mix and carefully combine, until the mixture is uniformly mixed, but not over-mixed.
11. Pour the mix into the tin.
12. Bake for about an hour, or until risen and firm.